The Waioeka River winding through bush-clad hills near Ōpōtiki

Ōpōtiki

Big rivers, back-country trails and ancient forest, 35 minutes down the coast.

Waioeka River · Photo: Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0

Ōpōtiki is a small river town about 35 minutes’ drive east of Salt & Pepper. It’s the gateway to the East Cape and the wild Waioeka and Motu rivers, and it’s one of the best spots in the region if you like getting outside: cycle trails for every level, serious back-country walks and some of the oldest trees in the country.

Mountain biking: the Motu Trails

The Motu Trails are one of the New Zealand Cycle Trail’s Great Rides, with three trails that can be ridden on their own or linked:

  • Dunes Trail (easy): 10 km each way along the coast from Ōpōtiki, beside Hukuwai Beach, with no real climbs. Good for families, kids on tag-alongs and anyone on an e-bike.
  • Motu Road Trail (intermediate): a long, hilly ride on the historic back-country road from Matawai, through farmland and bush.
  • Pakihi Track (advanced): 21 km one way through native forest, mostly downhill in the first half, with a swing bridge about halfway. It doesn’t need huge fitness, but there are steep drops, so it needs your full attention.

Motu Trails Ltd on St John Street in Ōpōtiki hires bikes (mountain, comfort, kids’ bikes, tag-alongs and baby seats) and runs shuttles to the trail starts, so you can ride one way and get picked up. The shuttle to the top of the Pakihi takes about 90 minutes.

Hikes and walks

  • Hukutaia Domain: a small native forest reserve on Woodlands Road, just out of town, with easy short walks. Its best-known tree is Taketakerau, a pūriri estimated to be more than 2,000 years old.
  • Tauranga Bridge Loop: about 2 hours, starting at one of the few harp-strung suspension bridges left in New Zealand, about 26 km down the Waioeka Gorge. It has stream crossings, so skip it after heavy rain.
  • Te Waiti Valley: a 30-minute nature loop through nīkau palm forest, or a longer valley track of around 2 hours one way.
  • Tautarangi Coastal Walkway: about an hour return from Ōpape Beach, east of town, through native forest to coastal views and pā sites.
  • Waioeka Gorge back-country: for experienced trampers, the gorge has longer tracks and huts, including the Manganuku, Nikau Flat and Kotepato tracks. Check the Department of Conservation website for conditions first.

Jet boating the Motu River

Motu River Jet runs 90-minute jet boat rides up the Motu River from the State Highway 35 bridge, east of Ōpōtiki, into country with no roads at all. They also do kayak drop-offs. Book ahead.

Horse riding

The closest guided riding we know of is Nikau Valley Horse Treks at White Pine Bush, inland from Whakatāne: treks of 2 to 3 hours through bush and farmland with views out to Whakaari. Contact them directly to check dates and book.

Beaches and fishing

Waiotahe Beach, on the way from Ōhope, is a good surf beach with a patrolled area from late November to late February. The rivers around Ōpōtiki hold rainbow and brown trout, and surfcasting along the coast is popular. You’ll need a Fish & Game licence for trout.

In town

The Ōpōtiki Museum on Church Street has a good collection of local history and taonga Māori (small entry fee), and Hiona St Stephen’s Church is worth a look. Ōpōtiki Golf Club, on the western side of town, welcomes visitors.

Making a day of it

An easy family day: ride the Dunes Trail in the morning, lunch in town, Hukutaia Domain in the afternoon and a swim at Waiotahe on the way home. Back on the beach at Ōhope in time for dinner. For more ideas, see day trips from Ōhope.

Come home to the beach

Salt and Pepper are two four-bedroom beach houses side by side on Ocean Road, Ōhope, directly across from the beach. Each sleeps 8, or book both for 16.